3 January 2005

The Drive to Germany


The map told me that we had about a five-hour drive to Dusseldorf Germany after leaving the ferry at Zebrugge.  Five hours of searching for signs that might be in German, or French or Dutch or who knows what?  Often you will find that a city is called one name in Dutch and another in French… you pay your nickel and take your chances.  Sometimes they throw in an English spelling just for the heck of it. 

Belgium is a relatively small country, but even so, it is divided between those that speak French and those that speak Flemish (I think it is pretty close to Dutch, but someone will no doubt correct me).  The dividing language line is an imaginary mark that runs through Brussels and right across the middle of Belgium.  Dutch is spoken north of this line, and French is spoken south of it.  As a compromise, nearly everyone speaks English. 

The locals don’t particularly care what language there signs may be in (as they speak all three), but it can be a bit of a problem for us with a map written in German.  One wrong decision and we may be heading for Genoa (in Italy) rather than Geneva (in Switzerland). 

The scenery along this leg of the trip was mostly flat farmland with huge old windmills. They sit along the edge of thousands of acres and still pump water out of the low areas.  I had a fantasy that I would see fields of commercially grown tulips, but that didn’t happen.

We stopped at a Shell station rest stop on the highway after a couple of hours so we could have lunch and stretch our legs.  The salmon I chose, served with crusty fresh bread and salad, was surprisingly delicious.  The tiny cup of French coffee in a tiny white china demitasse cup held enough caffeine to charge up an elephant.

As we plunged further into Germany, the flat lands began to rise around us.  The hills grew higher and occasionally we saw huge brick fortresses that were actually farm compounds.  Barns were attached together so that the joined buildings (including the huge house) formed one large square that served as a place for work and living.  Occasionally the houses were placed on top of the barns, which I guess provided more heat (from the animals and their droppings below).

The woodlands were the most beautiful I’ve ever seen.  Willowy white birch trees stood in giant clusters waving in the wind.  I’d only seen trees like these once before, a few years earlier as I rode the train from Moscow to Berlin. 

There aren’t many billboards on these stretches of the road, but one struck my fancy.  The huge picture on the sign was of a man driving his car with a can of soda in the hand that held the steering wheel, a cigarette dangled from his mouth, and his other hand held a mobile phone.  There were words in German at the bottom of the sign that I couldn’t read, but it was clear they were telling drivers not to do any of these things while they were driving because it causes accidents.

As I watched the scenery I was struck by how similar people are from all corners of the world.  I have been lucky enough to travel through a lot of places in this world and found that the landscape may be quite different, but the people are basically the same.  I kept wondering what would happen if we tried to pay more attention to what we have in common, rather than how we are different.

As we drove along, we each began counting up all of the states and countries we had visited.  Cat wanted to know why people like to drink coffee.  We told her that after she’s been to 20 countries, she can have her first cup.  She has six more to go.  She is eleven years old and the world is a small place. 

She thinks this life of hers is normal.  The little girl from Portugal she befriended on the beach in the Basque region of Spain, or the Mauri boy in New Zealand who shared the teeter-tatter with her, or the Arab boy on the bus in Tunisia are playmates – nothing more or less.  The most important lessons in life, so difficult for adults, often come naturally to children.