27 December 2004

The Roll on, Roll Off, Roll Over Ferry


As the overnight ferry from Hull England left the dock to take us to Zebrugge Belgium for the next leg of our adventure Jay decided to tell me a story.  I am not especially afraid of water, although my mother, over the years, has tried her best to change that in me. 

I believe we are safe, but just in case, every time I take off in a plane or head out to sea in a boat, I try to imagine the vessel completely surrounded by a circle of protection. And I NEVER want to need those attractive yellow vests that blow up automatically.

So it was no help at all that Jay had heard an interview with Terry Jones, the Monty Python Flying Circus comic, and decided to share it with me at this particular moment.  Apparently the crew of this ship (or rather a different crew - I hope – on a different ship) that was leaving for Zebrugge with our precious family and the rental car, had forgotten to close the loading doors properly and during the night the bays with all the cars had filled with water and the boat tipped over.  Terry Jones called this the “Roll on, Roll off, Roll over” service.  The North Sea is freezing cold, and I could not imagine jumping in to save my life.

Despite Jay’s story, we were excited about spending 12 hours crossing the North Sea on a ferry, and having our own sleeping room.  I had searched the Internet to find us a private room, complete with its own shower.  What luxury! 

We had a long wait in the car as all the heavy semi-trucks were loaded.  We sat patiently in our assigned row, waiting our turn.  Our plan was to visit our room, and then eat dinner before the ship left port.

After parking the car down in the hull (still dry, by the way) we made our way up several flights of stairs to the deck that was listed on our ticket.  Cat skipped down the narrow hallway to the door that was to be our room for the night.  She was sure the place would look just like the brochure, with a giant double bed, a TV, and a window to watch the ocean.

Her face fell as the door opened to reveal a room the size of her Barbie house.  There were two sets of bunk beds, a tiny stainless steel sink and a round window between the beds.  Behind a narrow door to our left was a tiny toilet/shower room. 

We dumped our luggage on the beds (Cat claimed the upper bunk) and made our way down to the deck with the dining room.  Everything was really crowded, especially the bar and casino, but we patiently waited in line behind the Brits.  Dinner was a marvelous buffet of several good vegetarian choices, (there was meat as well for carnivores) and loads of desserts.

After dinner, we made our way outside up on the top deck, found a bench and watched the sun set as we slowly pulled away from the shore.  The sky was clear and bright, but the wind made it feel quite chilly. 

We sat, bundled against the cold, and watched the skies darken.  The stars were so bright it seemed we ought to be able to reach out and grab one.  Jay, the son of a son of a son of a Norwegian sailor spent every moment he could outside on deck, watching the sky and enjoying the wind in his face.  When he returned to the room, I swore he had icicles hanging from his nose.  I was smart…I read a book on the comfortable bed.

The boat rocked and swayed all night long treating us like babies in a giant rocking chair.  At the first drop of light we jumped up to eat breakfast and watch the sun climb into the sky.  The ship pulled into the Zebrugge dock right on time…a great way to travel!

We rolled off (fortunately we did not roll over) the big boat and consulted our maps.  We were on our way to Germany… to the town of Mulheim.  In a place where history is a part of daily life, where the past – present – and future are often a part of the same breathe… I hoped to find my grandmother’s birthplace.  I had only known her through photos, but now I was about to find her and link my future and her past.