18 October 2004

Surprises in Wales

As we were about to leave our farm-stay host in the hills near Machynlleth we asked the fateful question, “Is there anything interesting to visit further north?”.  This is generally a dangerous question to ask for people like us who are eager to find the obscure and little visited places.

The next thing we knew we were re-living the 2,000 years of Celtic (pronounced Kel tic) fight to remain free at Celtica (http://www.celticawales.com), watching the Celts rattle the Roman, sting the Saxons and numb the Normans.  This was a fun way to spend part of an afternoon.  Afterwards we sat in the Celtica garden and drank tea, drinking in the warm sun while Cat played on the giant wooden chairs and table.

On we went to Porthmadog with the goal of riding a steam train into the heart of the Snowdonia Mountains to Blaenau Ffestiniog.  There is no more beautiful spot on this earth, with the exception of the town of Blaenau Ffestiniog which is probably one of the worst slate mining towns...what a vast difference in settings.

The train service originally was established in the early 1800’s to take the slate from the mining towns down the mountain to the sea where it was shipped by rail or ship. The rail line proved so profitable that eventually they added service for passengers.

Today the vintage Ffestiniog Railway is run by volunteers.  The beautifully restored red steam engine pulls vintage railroad cars up the mountain and back much the same way it has for almost 200 years.  We paid an extra couple of pounds to ride in first class where we settled into velvet highbacked arm chairs. 

As we left the Harbour Station we passed the old slate wharves and a slate quarry that was used in 1808…dreary drab looking places  The train stopped in Minffordd, a tiny town of black stone buildings and then on up the mountainside through Pen-y-bryn, Penrhyn, Rhiw Goch and more towns with names I could not pronounced.  Just before we arrived in Blaenau Ffestiniog we passed a beautiful waterfall.

The trip was relaxing, and the sunshine made everything look extra beautiful.  When we arrived at the town, we hopped off, bought lunch and hopped back on just in time to make the trip back down the mountain.

Back in Porthmadog we visited the information center next to the train station.  Information centers that provide assistance with housing reservations and tourist destinations can be found in large and small towns throughout Europe.  All you have to do is look for a sign with a lower case “i” and you know you will be able to find first rate help.  This time our luck was holding and we were directed to Bay View Guest House (http://www.bayviewsownsite.co.uk), a bed and breakfast in Criccieth, a tiny Victorian seaside town 30 minutes further up the coast.

We could hardly believe our good fortune when we turned left off of the highway and ended up on a shale beach and the loveliest castle ruin we had seen in a long time.  The view of Cardigan Bay and Snowdonia was fabulous.

Criccieth's castle was built at the beginning of the 13th century. The earliest mention of a stronghold on the craggy outcrop is to be found in the Welsh chronicles, the Brut y Tywysogyon, in the year 1239, when Gruffydd ap Llywelyn (son of Llywelyn ap Iorwerth, or "the Great") was imprisoned in the castle by his half-brother, Dafydd. 

Over the years the Welsh and the English have battled for this stronghold, and along the way they have added their own extensions to the castle.  Today Criccieth Castle is in the hands of CADW: Welsh Historic Monuments, and it houses an interesting small museum that tells the history of the castle.

This is a great place to climb around.  The castle sits high above the bay, and the town so the views are breathtaking. 

After a leisurely stroll on the beach to gather up a few of the big flat round rocks we were eager to get started on the next leg of our adventure…the wedding in Scotland.