16 December 2002

French Christmas Markets

Most of the towns in France have Christmas markets (Marche de Noel).  They are sometimes held in the center of town or in places like Abbaye Royal de Chaalis, a chateau near Ermenonville.

To get to the market we had to drive through the forest and down a long lane.  The gates of the chateau grounds were open so after we parked in the grass we followed some signs that pointed to the reception area. 

Directions in France have a strange way of leading you to where you want to go and then just before you reach the spot the directions disappear.  True to the French way, we arrived at the reception area and couldn’t figure out where to go.  Pretty soon some people came into the tiny room and then just kept going so we followed them through a door, through a garden and then into the ancient horse stables.

The first thing we saw was a big table set up with all kinds of French wine.  They were selling mugs of it warmed for 1 Euro ($1).  There were other displays in the stalls that sold things like onion jam or apple sherbet.  One woman sold tiny pancakes for a snack and yummy roasted chestnuts.

I passed up the cow livers that were in plastic packets and the  “froi gras” (goose liver) in beautiful glass jars.  There was an endless variety of sausages that looked like different kinds of pepperoni.

Other stalls had dolls from Guadalupe and angels made from wax.  There were Santas and snowmen ornaments made of felt.  Some stalls sold etched glass or wooden toys.  One of my favorite sites was a man selling feather and glass pens.  He had many colors of ink in glass containers.  All of the tables were decorated with pine greens and ivy.

The best part of the market was Seigfreid.  I first noticed him staring at me behind the wool capes and velvet gloves that were nicely displayed in one corner of a tiny stall.  He was sitting on an elegant looking older woman’s lap, but his little dog paws were on the table in front of him with his head resting on them.  Seigfreid, the little brown dachshund had little tan wisps of hair around his eyes and ears.  The expression on his face was one of a wise old man. 

I miss my dog, who now lives in Marietta, Ohio so I enjoy making friends with the dogs I meet.  Often I carry little treats so they will remember me.  The French take their dogs everywhere, including McDonalds where I once saw one heist his leg and take a leak by the door to the indoor children’s playground.

People don’t seem to stop and pet dogs so I always ask if it is ok.  Seigfreid was happy to get to know me and for five minutes I got my fill of happy tail wagging and knowing glances.  Cat let out a little squeal when she saw him but he didn’t like kids so we moved on.

After the market we walked over to the ancient chapel ruins with their high white arches still standing.  Behind the ruins is a small chapel built around 1570.  The ceiling has paintings of angels.  The arches that form the dome over the alter frame the giant stained glass windows.  This is the loveliest chapel I’ve seen, mostly because it hasn’t been restored.  Even though the paint is peeling the deep blue and green colors are stunning.

We didn’t go inside the chateau, which is full of beautiful antique furniture.  We will probably come back some time when we have company.

As we drove home I kept thinking of Seigfreid    I don’t want to miss one thing about life in France, but I confess I am looking forward to the day when we are back in Ohio so we can have a dog.  Maybe his name will be Seigfreid.